So, Lisa described quite a bit in the last blog. Oy. Now it's my turn to have the task of getting us all caught up over the last few days; so here goes.
We slept very well over the night. Probably the best since we have been away from home. As probably mentioned in previous entries, it is usually kind of warm for in each room and we weren't really able to get the temperature comfortable enough previously, but this room gave us some assistance. Windows. That and since the building in on top of rather tall hill, it always had a nice breeze. We were finally able to get comfortable and sleep well. This was important too because we planned to drive the Sli Cheann Sleibhe or The Slea Head Drive to you and me. This is a very narrow road with two-way traffic. It's more like someones paved driveway but it yields some of the most breathtaking scenery we've encountered and as some of the Irish say, it is some of the best scenery in Ireland. This route contours the southwest portion of the westernmost part of Europe, the Dingle peninsula. Although the drive itself may only take an hour or so, since it is only about 26 or so miles, one still needs to budget about 4 hours for the adventure. There are so man places to pull over, snap some pics, take in the scenery, and my favorite part, hike some trails. We did plenty of each.
We found ourselves parked at The Blasket Centre. It is kind of a museum that honors the people that eeked out a living on the Blasket Islands not far off of the coast from where we were. The islands were inhabited up until 1953 and was very Gaeltacht. The musuem was very quick to point out and honor many literary folks from the islands.
We thought it would be wise to grab a lunch before we set out on a rugged trail such as this was one was to be. The cafeteria was highly recommended by Rick (Steves). Lisa opted for the special, an open face smoked salmon plate with a typical Irish salad. I had the herb crusted baked cod. They both sucked. The were edible and they were sustenance, but they tasted like shit. The cod was soggy and Lisa's "special" was basically thin-sliced smoked salmon on lightly toasted bread. Time to hit the trail.
The trail that we went on (which was suggested by our very generous and helpful host at the B&B, John)is called Siuloid na Cille. It started in front of the Blasket Centre and looped its way to end beside it. It is a 5 kilometer trail that requires a bit of physical fitness as we both found out. We learned that there was a school house built along the trail that was used for a 1970's film Ryan's Daughter. Ha. We were wondering why many of the pubs around town were flying this movie's posters in different languages. Anyways, the trail began as a long, uphill hike that traversed through a tiny village. I think it was a village. Well, there were a couple of houses here and there. The trail started out as a paved road that eventually began more and more deteriorated until it eventually became a rocky path. The next thing we knew we were looking and a breath-taking panoramic view of the peninsula. I noticed a foot-worn path to my right and saw that it lead up even further to the top of the hill. I couldn't resist. Climbing it proved to be breath-taking. Both literally and physically. At some parts I had to recruit both of my hands and slow my roll or I'd definitely be revisiting the bottom fairly quickly. As I walked to the apex I felt a rush of complete awe. The view was just endless. Everywhere I looked I saw shadowy silhouettes of humbling mountains. In front were green hills speckled with gray and white rocks. Behind me lie the craggy coastline highlighted by crashing white and silver waves as the Atlantic stretched for an eternity beyond that. It was windy and cold but entirely inspiring. At that moment, I think I gained more insight and understanding of Irish expression. The way the land's muse speaks to those that listen.
Lisa ended climbing up to the top to meet me. We snap a few pictures and took in all in. Descending was definitely easier, as one could imagine. Just had to slow down and be careful.
We ventured forward on the trail which lead to the coastline for pretty much the rest of the hike and much to Lisa's delight we were able to encounter a few sheep.
By the time we got back to the Blasket Centre (which is were we had parked and started the hike) we were ready for another meal. Just not at the Blasket Centre.
We drove a short distance back into Dingle. Parked ol' Bandit back at the B&B and walked down the hill to a nice place called Ashe's B&B for dinner. Lisa had the foresight to make reservations there and as we walked in we where immediately seated. We changed up our drinking routine by having some white wine with dinner. Being that Dingle is a fishing community we assumed that we were both going to get seafood to pair with our wine. Well, I shifted course and just really felt like having red meat. It was a English beef (sorry, I don't remember exactly) that was served with onion rings and large cut chips. It was very good. Lisa's dish...whoa man. It was beautiful, smelled amazing, and tasted even better. It was a baked hake served with prawns and mussels. Underneath it all was a type of coastal/aquatic plant called samphire. It was delicious all on its own. We were both very impressed. Remember folks, samphire.
After dinner, it was out for drinks and music. Seriously becoming quite the norm for us. No complaints here! We pretty much ended up at the same two places we had been the night before, An Droichead Beag then next door to The Mighty Session. We had to wait a little bit before the music was to start because there was a rugby match on. In Ireland, apparently everything else will wait. Once the match was over the musicians made there way to he reserved seating area. It was two lads probably in there 20's. One played banjo and the other guitar. They were very good and lively. Lisa had notice an older lady with a bottle of whiskey, sharing the sprits with other folks sitting at the bar with her.on this night there was an accordion player that was accompanied by a guitar player. Lisa needed to use the restroom, so she offered to get us each another round of Guinness since she was getting up. After she dropped off the pints she left for the toilets. Right about this time I see the same whiskey lady, her lassies, and one fellow make their way in front of the musicians. They begin to clear all of the tables and chairs. I realized at this time that the rest of us were about to witness some authentic Irish dancing. Oh shit! YES! The music started and as did the dancing. It wasn't River dancing. This was choreographed foot-stomping and spinning that was fueled by "the life of man". This was amazing. It was loud, lively, and intense. I couldn't wait for Lisa to get back to witness this.
The group danced to about three songs total. They then grabbed their coats to promptly move on to the next pub. Evidently, that is how it's done in western rural Ireland.
Lisa and I finished our pints and decided that a change of scenery was a good idea so we tried to find perhaps a new pub we hadn't been to yet. Nope. We'd been to all of them pretty much. So we circled back around the block and decided to head over to The Mighty Session. Before we got through the doors we could tell that those dancers were in there. They were as loud as the musicians. On this night at The Mighty Session there was an accordion player that was accompanied by a guitar player. They were both awesome as well. It was our last night in Dingle and it was an awesome send-off. Up next, The Cliffs of Moher and Doolin.
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